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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.